Another spectacular day. Yesterday in Safed, I thought, it can't get better than this. We started off having breakfast in Kibbutz Lavi(a kibbutz founded by those who were part of the "kindertransport"....kids who were rescued from Germany and taken to England and who lost their parents in the Holocaust. These kids were relocated by the British after the war) in the Galilee and then Isaac, our guide, gathered us into the van and we went on to visit Capermaun where Jesus stayed with St. Peter and the remains of St. Peter's house have been excavated. There was also an ancient synagogue that showed at least 2 layers of construction through the centuries. The site is the home of Franciscan monks who maintain the ruins of the synagogue, an ancient olive press, and St. Peter's home. We then went to Nazareth, which is an Arab and Christian town and home to the Church of the Annunciation, which shelters the spot where Mary received an angel who told her that the savior was coming. We both felt comfortable in Nazareth and wandered around, eventually finding a small Arab restaurant for lunch. Great chicken shwarma and hummus sandwich, a charming host and a great view of a middle eastern fender bender argument that rivals any similar encounter on Commercial Street. After Nazareth, we moved on to a kibbutz, Beit Alpha to see the remains of an ancient synagogue (yup, they are everywhere!) with a well preserved mosaic floor.
Then the long ride to Jerusalem through the West Bank and Jericho. We passed the Allenby Bridge to Jordan and saw Israeli settlements alongside Palestinian villages. Coming through the checkpoint from the West Bank into Jerusalem was a lesson for me about life in Israel. We had seen camels, Israeli soldiers, Bedouin villages,and went into sensory overload by the time we entered Jerusalem, passing the Jaffa gate on our way to the King David Hotel, where we are now. It is Michele's birthday and we had a great dinner, bottle of Israeli wine, and are now ready to tuck in so we can meet Isaac in the morning for our visit to the Old City.
Being in Israel for Hannukah is wonderful. Each place we have stayed has a menorah lighting ceremony in the lobby with a rabbi and cantor leading us all in the prayers and songs. To have this experience in Jerusalem tonight was a gift that I will never forget.
Observations on Israel: Everything I have been told by Americans about the people is false. The people are lovely, funny, friendly and proud. We have seen some Israeli Defense Forces soldiers, few police, and little tension. After going through the Galilee, the Golan Heights, the West Bank and coming into this amazing city, I totally understand the need for security. That Christians, Jews, and Moslems can live together is a reality in Israel. The countries surrounding Israel, that have worked so hard to destroy this dream, are the problem. We have found that there is distrust of President Obama and a fear that this country will be abandoned by the US. That cannot happen. Golda Meir once said that (paraphrase here, folks, but you can look it up) when the Arabs love their children as much as they hate the Jews, there will be peace. Clearly, a simplification of the situation, but some words of truth lie within that statement.
Tomorrow, the Western Wall, the Via Dolorosa and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. We both hope that we hear the Moslem call to prayer to make it a complete experience. A prayer for peace in this country is different than anywhere else on this planet.
Sleep now....the adventure continues tomorrow. The lights of Jerusalem are outside of our window, which is open to a gentle, optimistic breeze.
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